An unforgettable stay in the land of the morning calm

I remember falling in love with Korea in the year 2000, when the then U.S. Secretary of State Madeleine Albright visited North Korea.

I was glued to the documentary on television, where she could be seen offering a basketball to Kim Jong-il, the leader of one of the most closed countries in the world. I was so surprised to see this man, Kim Jong-il, grinning like a child as he held the ball autographed by the NBA star Michael Jordan. He seemed so nice and yet I knew that he was oppressing 23 millions of North Koreans.

The desire to travel to this secretive country increased by the day, until finally, in August 2006, I was able to travel to Pyongyang, the North Korean capital that is hidden from the eyes of the world, when I was invited to take part in a trip organised by the Korean Friendship Association based in Spain.

I spent 11 days in North Korea before travelling to South Korea. Unfortunately, my stay in South Korea only lasted five days, just enough time to carry out a few interviews with refugees, NGOs and university teachers. It did not give me a chance to feel South Korea, the Republic of Korea.

From that year on, I started writing the first and only weblog in Portugal exclusively dedicated to the Korean peninsula.

In 2009, I came across a unique opportunity to return to South Korea. The European Journalism Centre (EJC) and the Korean Press Foundation (KPF) were organising a fellowship programme that seemed to have been especially tailor-made for me. I sent in my application and a few weeks later, was delighted to find out that I had been accepted!

Back to South Korea

Landing in Korea is like landing in another world. A world of taste, colour, tension, calm, past, future, so many apparent contradictions and yet all coexisting in a harmonious partnership.

The EJC/KFP programme started off with a series of lectures by well known Korean experts which gave our group of six European journalists a helpful overview on Korean culture and politics.

Over the following period of 12 days we were able to make contacts that would have taken us weeks to build otherwise. We visited the South Korean Parliament and had a talk with MPs from various political parties. This is when I discovered that there is a special room at the Parliament designed for the day of reunification between the two Koreas, a day which since the end of Korean War in 1953, so many Koreans have been waiting for.

We also met with the South Korean ambassador in charge of the nuclear issue and visited a few technology companies, which constitute some of South Korea’s strongest assets, as well as, perhaps, the most famous Korean company: Hyundai.

The programme took into account the areas of interest of each participant. One of the most intense moments for me was the trip we took to the DMZ. Located about 30 kms to the north of Seoul, the Demilitarised Zone bears an ironic name, since it is one of the most militarised areas in the world.

The 38th parallel marking the border between North and South Korea is a mere foot away from North Korea. It was an impressive experience to return to the same place I had visited in 2006, but this time on the other side of the border.

Expanding my knowledge and my network

During our stay we were each invited to share a dinner with a Korean family. This gave me a chance to speak with Korean people on a personal level, learn about their traditions and hear their thoughts about their country.

Meal time was always a moment of pure enjoyment. We were treated to an abundance of colours and flavours and kimchi, bulgogi, bibimba and other delicacies were all served at just the right time and with the right level of spiciness.

Our rich programme took us to various parts of Korea, including the important harbour city of Busan and its fascinating fish market where customers can buy what they want and have it cooked right in front of their eyes - a must see!

Our visit to Jeju Island was another highlight of the trip. There we saw enigmatic women, some of them older than 70 years, who still maintain the tradition of diving into the sea of Jeju, looking for oysters, octopus and other fish to earn money and sustain their families. They can dive for hours on end and without any oxygen support.

Finally, in Jeju, we enjoyed a fruitful meeting with a group of Korean journalists. I have kept these contacts until today and they have been precious. I appeal to my fellow Korean colleagues whenever I need to prepare a radio programme involving Korean affairs.

Overall, my portfolio of Korean contacts grew exponentially during this trip. This was very valuable, especially for someone like myself who is keeping a weblog devoted exclusively to Korean affairs.

For European journalists, sometimes so far removed from Asia, the EJC/KFP programme is an excellent opportunity to better understand one of the most dynamic world economies that continues to keep its ancient traditions alive.

The only problem is… you won’t want to return home!

By Rita Colaço
Portuguese reporter
http://coreiadonorte.wordpress.com

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The 2011 KPF/EJC fellowship programme will take place between 22 August and 3 September 2011.

Apply online before 29 May 2011!

 

Posted on May 11, 2011 by .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).
Filed under blogging, events, development, projects.